Ben Nevis via the CMD Arête: A Complete Guide

Most people climb Ben Nevis by the Mountain Track — the old Tourist Track — a long, relentless slog on a good path. But there is a far finer way up Britain's highest mountain, one that experienced hillwalkers speak of with reverence: the Carn Mor Dearg Arête, universally shortened to the "CMD Arête". It is one of the great mountain days in Scotland, and this guide explains what it involves and who it's for.

What is the CMD Arête?

The route first climbs Carn Mòr Dearg (1,220m), itself the tenth-highest Munro, then follows a spectacular curving, narrow ridge — the arête — that sweeps round and up to the summit of Ben Nevis (1,345m). Where the Tourist Track plods up the mountain's dull western flank, the CMD Arête traverses high above the mighty north face, with its buttresses and gullies falling away beneath you. It transforms Ben Nevis from a walk into a genuine mountaineering expedition.

Difficulty and exposure

The arête itself is a Grade 1 scramble — the crest is narrow and airy, with some hands-on moves, and there is serious exposure down the north face. It is easier than the Aonach Eagach, but it demands a head for heights, sure-footedness, and comfort on narrow ground. It is also a long, committing day — considerably longer and more strenuous than the Tourist Track, with more ascent and remote high ground. This is a full mountain day for fit, experienced walkers, not a first Munro.

Navigation and the descent

The summit plateau of Ben Nevis is one of the most dangerous pieces of navigation in Britain, ringed by cliffs and prone to sudden cloud. Even having come up the arête, most walkers descend by the Mountain Track — which means you must find it correctly off the plateau, using the well-known compass bearings to avoid Five Finger Gully and the north face. Do not improvise a descent in poor visibility. Our main guide to climbing Ben Nevis covers the plateau navigation in detail; read it alongside this.

Choosing your day and season

Save the CMD Arête for a clear, settled, dry day. The whole point is the position and the views; in cloud you lose both and gain only risk. In winter it becomes a serious graded mountaineering route requiring full winter skills, axe, crampons and rope — far beyond the summer scramble. For summer, wait for the right forecast and go with the daylight to spare.

Is it for you?

If you have climbed a few Munros, are comfortable on narrow ground with exposure, and want to experience Ben Nevis at its magnificent best rather than as a crowded slog, the CMD Arête is one of the finest days you can have in Scotland. If you're newer to the hills or unsure about exposure, climb Nevis by the Mountain Track first — you'll bag the summit just the same, and you can come back for the arête when you're ready. For more airy ridges, see our best Munro ridge walks.

Related guides

• How to climb Ben Nevis — all the routes and the plateau navigation
• Scrambling grades explained
• Best Munro ridge walks
• Munros tracking app — offline maps of the arête and the Ben Nevis plateau