How to Climb Sgùrr nan Gillean

Sgùrr nan Gillean is one of the most striking peaks on the Isle of Skye — a sharp, soaring summit at the northern end of the Black Cuillin. It's often described as the most "approachable" of the Cuillin Munros, and it's a common first objective for walkers venturing onto this extraordinary range. But it's essential to understand what "approachable" means here: on the Cuillin, the easiest Munro is still a serious mountaineering undertaking.

The Cuillin are different

The Black Cuillin are unlike any other Scottish mountains. Their gabbro peaks demand rock scrambling and, on most, roped climbing to reach the summits; the rock plays havoc with compasses, so navigation is uniquely difficult; and the terrain is unforgiving. The Cuillin Munros are the hardest on the list, and many walkers — even very experienced ones — choose to climb them with a qualified mountain guide. That is a sensible, common and highly recommended choice, especially for your first Cuillin peak.

The Tourist Route

Sgùrr nan Gillean's normal ascent is confusingly named the "Tourist Route" — do not be fooled by the word. It approaches from Sligachan across rough moorland, then climbs into the mountain and up the south-east ridge to the summit. The upper section involves genuine, exposed scrambling (around Grade 3) with serious drops, and the final pitch to the narrow summit is a real scramble where many will want the security of a rope. It is not a walk, and it is not for anyone without solid scrambling experience and a strong head for heights.

What you need

To attempt Sgùrr nan Gillean independently you need confident, competent scrambling ability, comfort with serious exposure, Cuillin-specific navigation awareness, and ideally prior experience on the range. If you don't have all of that, hire a guide — it's the normal way onto these peaks and turns a dangerous proposition into a superb, safe day. Either way, choose dry, settled weather: the gabbro is wonderfully grippy when dry and treacherous when wet, and cloud makes the already-hard navigation harder still. See our guide to Munro bagging on the Skye Cuillin for the wider picture, and be honest with yourself about the risks — read are Munros dangerous?

Related guides

• Munro bagging on the Skye Cuillin
• Scrambling grades explained
• Are Munros dangerous?
• Munros tracking app — offline maps for the approach across Sligachan moor